Daffodil ( Carlton ) - 4 bulbs
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The dependable, spring-flowering daffodil is a favourite for its long life and carefree, colourful blooms. Other common names include jonquil and narcissus.
Daffodils bring cheer to the spring garden with abundant flowers in hues of yellow, white, pink, and salmon. Varieties are available in a range of sizes and forms. Flowers may be single or double, grow singly on a stem or with multiple flowers per stem, and height varies from 6 to 20 inches.
This trumpet shape contains the stamens and is the flower’s most conspicuous feature. The daffodil’s popularity has resulted in the production of many varieties differing from the yellow parent form mainly in colour; the trumpet and petals may themselves be of contrasting yellow, white, pink, or orange.
Common name: Daffodil Carlton
Color: yellow, white, pink, and salmon
Bloom time: early/mid season
Height: 6 to 20 inches.
Difficulty level: Easy
Planting & Care
The popularity of Carlton is surpassed by only a handful of other daffodils and it s not hard to figure out why this one ranks high. Take classic daffodil yellow blooms, add strong stems, good stalk height for garden and vase use, and robust perennializing abilities throughout its growing range and you ve got a first rate flower.
Also, the blossoms scents is like that of sugar cookies, sweet and with strong vanilla overtones. Plant this with Ice Follies for a sure fire combo. Deer and rodent proof.
Sunlight: full sun to full shade.
Soil: They are not fussy about soil as long as it is loose and well drained. To improve drainage in heavy soils, deeply dig in plenty of organic matter prior to planting.
Water: Water newly planted bulbs thoroughly. In many regions, fall and winter are wet or snowy enough to provide moisture. Keep plantings well watered if precipitation fails; continue until foliage begins to yellow. Plants don’t need summer moisture.
Temprature: Daffodil flowers grow best in 50 to 75 degrees Fahrenheit
Fertilizer: Daffodils do not require heavy fertilization. When preparing the beds, use 2 to 3 pounds of a complete garden fertilizer such as a 6-24-24 or other fertilizer with a 1:4:4 or 1:3:3 N-P-K ratio.
- PreparingDrainage Perhaps the most exacting need of daffodils is good drainage.
- Bulbs planted in poorly drained locations become weakened, fail to flower and often develop bulb rots.
- Bulbs in locations that remain moist during summer when soils are very warm develop rots easily.
- If drainage cannot be improved, raised beds should be built for the daffodilsLight Daffodils must have sunlight to continue to develop and flower year after year.
- Since much of their growth is completed before trees fully leaf out, they may be grown beneath trees.
- In such locations, they may need additional water and fertilizer to compete with tree roots.
- Plant them where they get at least a half day of sunlight.
- Avoid north sides of buildings and tall, dense trees such as evergreens.
- Soils Because of their need for well-drained conditions, they grow poorly in tight soils that have poor internal drainage even though a location with good surface drainage has been chosen.
- The natural soil type should not deter anyone from growing daffodils, however, as soils may be improved.
- Since the base of the bulbs should be set 5 to 6 inches below the soil surface, and since root feeding is below that level, soil should be worked deeply — about 10 to 12 inches.
- Light soils generally will not need many amendments, but in heavy clay soils add liberal quantities of coarse sand and some organic material such as peat moss or leaf mold.
- Animal manures tend to encourage the development of basal rot.
- In tight soil, as much as six bushels of organic material per 100 square feet of bed area may be added.
- Fertilizing Daffodils do not require heavy fertilization.
- When preparing the beds, use 2 to 3 pounds of a complete garden fertilizer such as a 6-24-24 or other fertilizer with a 1:4:4 or 1:3:3 N-P-K ratio.
- Incorporate this fertilizer into 100 square feet of soil along with the sand and organic material.
- Packaged bulb food is convenient to use.
- When planting bulbs in clumps rather than beds, about a handful of fertilizer per 12 bulbs will be adequate.
- Be sure to mix the fertilizer thoroughly with the soil.
- Never place it directly in the bottom of the hole.
- A high fertilizer concentration can kill newly emerging roots and promote bulb rots.
- Where to plant Daffodils are suitable for the shrub border, perennial beds and among ground covers.
- They should be planted in groups of three to a dozen bulbs of one variety for the best effect.
- They are especially suitable for planting in front of evergreens that provide background and wind protection.
- Those planted near the house foundation in a southern exposure or those on a southern slope generally flower earlier than the same variety in another location.
- Time to plant Daffodils must have time to develop a good root system before cold weather sets in and the soil freezes.
- For this reason, planting before mid-October is generally best.
- In areas where cold weather arrives late, planting as late as Thanksgiving may still give good results.
- Select large, firm, healthy bulbs to get the most from your planting.
- Apply a low-nitrogen, high-potash fertilizer after flowering if bulbs are not performing.
- Water late-flowering daffodils in dry spring weather (flowers may abort in dry conditions).
- Deadhead plants as flowers fade (for neater garden appearance) and allow leaves to remain for at least 6 weeks.
- Lift and divide the clumps when flowering becomes sparse or the clumps congested.
- After they bloom in the spring, allow the plants to grow until they die off.
- They need time after blooming to store energy in the bulbs for next year.
- To remove the dead plants, either snip them off at the base, or twist the leaves while pulling lightly.
- Once daffodils and tulips have gone by, add bonemeal to the soil for next year s blooms.